So, I end up on XFCE4 on Debian Testing again. It's just the most complete, configurable, and standards-abiding DE out there.

Bluebird theme for controls and Blackbird for the window decorations. Standard Xubuntu stuff there.

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"I appreciate SDF but it's a general-purpose server and the name doesn't make it obvious that it's about art." - Eugen Rochko